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Frequently asked questions
Q: My epoxy doesn’t seem to be completely cured. It still feels tacky on the
surface. Is it defective?
A: Several factors can affect the curing of epoxies. Not mixing equal parts
is usually the first suspected cause of problems, but since the 50-50 ratio
has a plus or minus tolerance of about 10%, this is rarely a problem.
Sometimes modelers will intentionally mix in extra hardener. This is not
recommended! The improper ratio can result in brittleness and/or loss of
strength in the cured epoxy. Incomplete mixing of the two parts will also
cause problems. Spend at least one minute to thoroughly mix the two
components.
The vast majority of problems with epoxies are temperature related. Most
epoxies need an environment that exceeds 70 degrees F. while they are curing.
Heating the epoxy hours after mixing will not solve the problem of improper
curing. The temperature must be correct during the initial curing time.
Maintaining proper temperature control in your workshop will solve most epoxy
problems; however, since the majority of workshops are garages where work is
mostly done at night when temperatures are low, temperature control can be
impractical. In this case there are two options. First, the two epoxy
components can be pre-heated before mixing. We have found heating epoxy
bottles without their tops in a microwave oven to be the quickest method. The
bottles should be heated to where they are only slightly warm to the touch,
which usually only takes 10 to 20 seconds, with the resin (black top) taking
less time. Do not mix components that have been overheated, as the cure time
will be greatly reduced.
The second option is to heat the epoxy after is has been mixed with a heat
gun. This should be done both before and after applying the mixed epoxy. If
your workshop is particularly cold, run the heat gun over the epoxy again
about 15-30 minutes after applying. If you are bonding metal, pre-heat it for
best results. Of course, during summer none of these precautions usually need
to be taken.
Q: My 30 Minute epoxy started to cure in only 10-20 minutes. Did I get mis-
marked bottles?
A: The minute designations on our epoxies are the amount of time one has
before the components start to cure to a taffy-like consistency when mixed on
a flat surface (such a s the flexible plastic top to a coffee can). Higher
temperatures will reduce the working time. As epoxies cure, heat is created.
If a larger amount of epoxy (1 oz. or more) is mixed in a cup, a mini-reactor
is created which concentrates the heat of curing which causes the epoxy
components to kick-off faster which creates more heat which further speeds
the curing, creating more heat, so on and so on. On warm days, you can end up
with a smoking blob. Lay down parallel, equal lengths of each component
before mixing them together to get consistent results. The 20 minute
designation of our FINISH-CURE™ takes into account its being mixed in larger
quantities in a cup.
Q: My cyanoacrylate has been working great but today I can’t get it to stick
two pieces of wood together. Did the CA suddenly go bad?
A: Not usually. CAs cure (polymerize) when pressed into a thin film in the
presence of an alkali environment. In general, ambient humidity in the air
and on the bonding surface provide the proper pH to initiate cure in a few
seconds. The best bonds are achieved when relative humidity is 40 to 60
percent at room temperature. If the surfaces to be bonded are excessively dry
or are acidic, the curing can be much slower or not occur at all. In such
cases, INSTA-SET™ accelerator should be sprayed on one surface and CA on the
other. INSTA-SET™ is formulated with a high pH that initiates curing in less
than 8 seconds.
The CA can lose its potency if exposed to higher temperatures for an extended
period. A bottle of CA in a tool box that is left to sit in the summer sun or
a bottle that is exposed to direct sunlight will greatly increase the aging
process. The CA tends to thicken and turn darker as it ages. Kept in cooler
surroundings, Bob Smith Industries will maintain its potency for two years or
more. A good test for thin CA is to shake the bottle and notice how long it
takes for all the bubbles to disappear. If it takes longer than 3 seconds,
the CA is on its way downhill. It will still form strong bonds, but they will
be slower and with less penetration.
Using the wrong consistency of adhesive on a joint will also lead to
problems. Thin CA should not be used on end grain balsa wood. The CA can be
"sucked" up the fibers of the wood for an inch or more, i.e. the CA is drawn
away from the bonding surface. Thicker CA should be applied sparingly to only
one surface. The best bonds are achieved if only enough adhesive is applied
to fill a gap.
Q: Can anything be used to thin CA (decrease its viscosity)?
A: The only substance that can be added to thicker CA to reduce its viscosity
is thin cyanoacrylate. Any other additive will quickly harden the adhesive.
Q: What can I use to bond clear plastics without getting the frosting effect
that occurs with regular CAs?
A: When CAs cure they volatize, creating the appearance of a white haze
around the bondline. This phenomenon occurs when the cyanoacrylate monomer
reacts with moisture in the air, and settles on the part. On areas where this
may be a problem, SUPER-GOLD+™ is ideal, especially for clear plastics. You
will want to use the minimum amount of CA, so a regulate or extra-fine
extender tip should be used to apply to the SUPER-GOLD+™. It works best to
apply the CA to the area on the clear plastic to be bonded. This way if you
make an error in the placement of the two parts adhesive does not get on
areas you want to remain clear. SUPER-GOLD+™ sometimes has a tendency to “
string” as the glue tip is pulled away from a surface. The "string" that may
be created can be drawn to the clear plastic by static electricity, which can
ruin your whole day. It is best to wash the clear plastic with plain water
and wipe it dry before bonding. INSTA-SET™ accelerator can be used to
immediately cure the SUPER-GOLD+™ since it will not affect clear plastic. (
INSTA-SET™ actually works as a great surface clearer. Use it to remove the
residue adhesive from adhesive backed labels.)
Q: Is cyanoacrylate toxic, and does odorless CA just cover up what will still
be toxic effects?
A: Cyanoacrylate is not toxic! The fumes from CA are a vaporized form of the
cyanoacrylate monomer that irritate sensitive membranes in the eyes, nose and
throat. They immediately are polymerized by the moisture in the membranes and
become inert. They do not penetrate into human internal systems. In fact, CA
that is used to suture wounds avert some of the infections that occur in
stitched wounds. It also eliminates the need for stitch removal because it
sloughs off along with the outer layer of skin after a couple of weeks.
Cyanoacrylates have been successful in grafting skin, bone and cartilage;
repairing eyes; closing dangerously ballooned blood vessels in the abdomen;
and stopping spinal fluid leaks.
About 5% of the population can become sensitized to CA fumes after repeated
exposure. Just a small exposure can result in flu-like symptoms. Our odorless
SUPER-GOLD+™ CAs eliminate any adverse reactions. The most common misnomer
about CA is that they contain cyanide and that the fumes will poison you. Not
True! Period. Case closed.
Q: Can SUPER-GOLD™ odorless CA be used on white foam?
A: SUPER-GOLD™ and SUPER-GOLD+™ are completely white foam compatible. INSTA-
SET™ accelerator is also white foam compatible, but it must be used
correctly. While INSTA-SET™ will not attack the foam, the heat generated
during the curing of the SUPER-GOLD™ may melt the foam! The minimum amount of
INSTA-SET™ should be used. Since there is usually little or not moisture
present in white foam, when bonding two pieces of foam one piece should be
lightly misted with INSTA-SET™ and left for 2-3 minutes before applying
SUPER-GOLD+™ to the opposite part and bringing them together.
Q: Why is SUPER-GOLD™ so expensive, and why does it have a shorter shelf
life?
A: It’s the nature of the beast. The raw materials for odorless CAs are
universally extremely expensive and limited in supply. Their shorter shelf
life is an unavoidable result of their chemical makeup and adds to its
marketing costs. The SUPER-GOLD™’s have a maximum shelf life of 1 1/2 years
under ideal conditions.
Q: There’s only two or three primary sources for cyanoacrylates so why are
there so many claims of one CA being better than others?
A: Cyanoacrylate is manufactured around the world, with at least six
companies just in Japan! Germany and England are also major sources. Many
companies import bulk CA and bottle it here in the USA. Bob Smith Industries’
regular CA is 100% made in the USA, even the bottles and tops. Other
companies think that locally bottling an imported product qualifies it for
the "Made in the USA" designation in their advertising; however, you will not
find "Made in USA" on every bottle since it guarantees to consumers that they
are buying the freshest CA’s available along with the purest ingredients,
which are the latest refinement of the original CA formula that was developed
be Eastman Kodak in the 1950’s.
Q: My colored cap sometimes can be difficult to take off. What can I do?
A: The different rates or shrinkage in the various colors of plastic we use
for our caps and tolerance variations in molds can sometimes result in caps
that fit too tight. A twisting motion as you pull up on the cap is usually
all that is needed to remove it. If you find the cap too difficult to grip,
take a spare 1/4 - 20 or 1/4 - 28 metal nut and self-thread it onto the top
of the cap, which will give you a better grip. When using INSTA-CURE™ super
thin CA, we recommend using teflon tubing or an extra-fine extender tip. They
can remain part of the top and the blue cap can be set aside without having a
significant affect on the shelf-life. The finer tips allow more precise
control of the thin CA and greatly resist clogging.
Q: After applying FINISH-CURE™ and sanding it down to a smooth surface, I
accidentally went down to the bare balsa. Do I have to apply more epoxy to
seal this area?
A: The objective of most modelers who use FINISH-CURE™ is to achieve a
durable and smooth surface while adding the minimum amount of weight. If you
haven’t sanded down through the epoxy in a couple of spots, you haven’t
sanded the surface enough and are adding extra weight! Since it is usually
very inconvenient and time consuming to mix a small batch of epoxy for such
small areas, INSTA-CURE™ super thin CA is the best alternative. Apply a few
drops to the balsa and use the fine tubing on the tip as a brush to spread it
around. Wipe off the CA with a paper towel and then apply more CA, followed
again by a quick swipe of the paper towel. A light spray of INSTA-SET™
accelerator to insure a full cure allows the area to be sanded within 10
seconds. A hard-backed sanding block will blend the area into the epoxy
finish. Older CA that has lost some of its potency can actually be easier to
use for this application. Entire surfaces can be finished smooth using just
thin CA. The fumes that result from the application of such large quantities
of CA can be overwhelming so extra precaution must be taken to provide
sufficient ventilation. Thin CA can also be used to apply light weight
fiberglass cloth. Substituting SUPER-GOLD™ odorless thin eliminates the
problem with fumes.
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